The first week of May 2015 witnessed the
first Salonika Campaign Society ‘Centenary’ tour to the old First World War
battlefields in Greece and Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM). It
was fitting to begin these ‘themed’ tours by covering ground once marched and
fought over by 10th (Irish) Division, the first element of the
British army to arrive in the Balkans during October 1915. With the tour party
including representatives of the Royal Dublin Fusiliers and Leinster Regiment
Associations as well as individuals with family connections to men serving in
the Royal Munster Fusiliers and Royal Irish Fusiliers, we had a number of
regiments covered. Personal stories of men involved in the campaign flowed
freely from members of the group, adding to the narrative and analysis of
events I provided as tour guide. Extracts from letters and diaries read at key
locations provided a powerful link to past events as did photographs taken by
officers and men of the British Salonika Force (BSF). By the tour’s end the
names Lt Col H Jourdain and Capt Noel Drury were, through their diaries and
photographs, particularly well known to members of the group.
The tour began in Thessaloniki with visits
to the large military cemeteries of Mikra and Lembet Road. Both stand on or
near sites once occupied by Allied military hospitals but are now hemmed by
suburbs of the city. As always the CWGC plots were immaculately maintained as
were the French, Italian and Serbian sections at Lembet Road. Whilst in
Thessaloniki we also visited landmarks such as the famous White Tower. The
‘Birdcage’ defences of Salonika constructed by British and French troops
between December 1915 – May 1916 were also on the itinerary. With hills in the
Rendina Gorge covered by dense scrub we were unable to visit the sector worked
on by 10th (Irish) Division. Instead the group gained an impression
of the effort expended by the soldiers constructing the defences by looking at
trenches, machine-gun posts and other remains built by 22nd Division
and adjacent French units. We then headed east to Stavros on the Gulf of
Rendina. It was here that 29th Brigade landed in late December 1915
to construct the final piece of the ‘Birdcage’. A near deserted beach and a
beautiful blue sky welcomed us and the heat enticed some members of the group
into the clear waters of the Aegean.
Monday 4 May saw us heading for the Struma
Valley via Lahanas (Lahana) on the old Serres road. At Lahanas our Greek guide,
Apostolos, gave an account of the battle between Greek and Bulgarian forces
during the 2nd Balkan War of 1913, a reminder of just why the
British army ended up in the same location less than three years later. After a
visit to the CWGC Struma Cemetery, we crossed the River Struma and headed for
the villages of Monokklisia (Karajakoi Bala & Karajakoi Zir) and Provotas
(Yenikoi). Between 30 September and 4 October 1916 these villages were attacked
by elements of 10th (Irish) and 27th Divisions. Looking
at this action ‘on the ground’ was even a first for me. Although wet ground
prevented our following the line of advance from the Struma, a conveniently
unlocked water tower on the edge of Monokklisia provided a welcome vantage
point from which to view the flat, open ground across which the assault was
made. Our coach then trundled us round the top of the Struma Valley toward Lake
Doiran. Near the village of Doirani visits were made to the CWGC’s Doiran
Cemetery, where restoration work continues, and the BSF Memorial to the
Missing. From the latter is had a fantastic panorama of not only key features
of the Doiran battlefield but also the Krusha Balkan Hills, the Beles Mountains
and Lake Doiran. The day concluded with our leaving Greece behind and crossing
into FYROM.
The following day we were back in the
footsteps of 10th (Irish) Division with a visit to the Kosturino
battlefield. Driving north of Doiran and through the Dedeli Pass our coach just
managed to crawl over the steep hills in front of Kosturino without our having
to get out and push. Debussing in the village we ‘entractored and trailered’ for
the journey to Rocky Peak. Over the past few years this piece of off-roading
has become an integral part of the battlefield tour. Though rough and ready, most
travellers agree the novelty value more than makes up for any temporary
discomfort. On reaching Rocky Peak visitors are welcomed by a stunning view
over the Kosturino battlefield. From this isolated vantage point one can follow
the story of the intensive fighting of 7 – 8 December 1915 before going on to
walk the actual ground. On the drive
back to Doiran we stopped at the 10th (Irish) Division Memorial for
an impromptu and moving commemoration. Here wreaths were laid on behalf of the
Royal Dublin Fusiliers and Leinster Regiment, songs were sung and toasts made
as we remembered all those from the division who died during the Gallipoli and
Salonika Campaigns.
Although not directly associated with 10th
(Irish) Division, no serious battlefield explorer can visit Doiran without
walking the hills and ravines over which the BSF fought its two major actions
in 1917 and 1918. Passing numerous Bulgarian bunkers the group climbed Grand
Couronne to reach the ‘Devil’s Eye’ OP. Over two days the group covered much
ground and gained an understanding of the difficult terrain over which the
battles were fought. Beyond Doiran we visited the crash site of Lt Paul Denys
Montague who served with No.47 Squadron (RFC) and learnt of this talented
individual whose life was, like so many others, cut short by war. Finally, on
the road to Skopje we called in at the partially excavated Roman city of Stobi.
The remains are indeed impressive and members of the group expressed surprise
that such a site existed in FYROM.
In all this was a great tour. The group was
a good mix of veteran Salonika travellers and new recruits. Everyone got along
splendidly and contributed to the tour. The weather was generally excellent,
the landscape impressive and often beautiful, the walks packed full of military
history and beer at the end of the trail was always cold! Our accommodation
beside Lake Doiran was to a level not before experienced on an SCS tour and the
local food in all cases was of excellent quality. It was of course great to see
all my friends again in both Greece and FYROM. Without this dedicated team of
enthusiasts it would be all but impossible to run such great tours. I for one
am already looking forward to heading back out to the Balkans in September and
maybe October too.
Alan Wakefield
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